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Metal studs have become a mainstay in modern construction—whether for residential partition walls, commercial ceilings, or soffits—offering a lightweight, durable, and fire-resistant alternative to traditional wood framing. Their precise dimensions and resistance to warping make them ideal for framing straight, stable walls. But to fully realize the benefits of metal framing, selecting the right screws is critical.

Unlike wood studs, metal framing requires specialized screws capable of penetrating steel while maintaining a firm, lasting grip. This guide walks you through 10 essential tips to choose the best screws for metal studs, ensuring structural integrity and smooth installation—whether you’re a seasoned contractor or a DIY builder.

1. Self-Drilling vs. Self-Tapping Screws

For most metal stud applications, self-drilling screws (commonly called Tek screws) are your go-to. Their built-in drill tip pierces light-gauge steel (typically 0.5mm–1.2mm) without a pilot hole, saving time and effort.

Self-tapping screws, by contrast, require pre-drilling and are best reserved for thicker steel or specialty applications. For typical residential or commercial framing, stick with self-drilling to optimize speed and consistency.

2. Choose the Right Length

The screw should fully penetrate both layers of metal with at least three full threads for a secure grip. General framing screws range from 13mm to 30mm (½" to 1¼") in length. Use longer screws—30mm and up—when joining multiple studs or attaching heavier fixtures.

Avoid overly long screws that could protrude and interfere with wall finishes or wiring.

3. Screw Diameter (Gauge) Matters

Gauge influences both strength and the ability to install without damaging the stud.

• #6 and #8 screws: Ideal for most metal stud framing.
• #10 screws: Used for heavier loads or thicker gauge metal, but they require higher torque and can deform thin studs.

Balance strength with compatibility—too thick and you risk stripping or over-penetrating.

4. Understand Screw Point Design

Tek screws come with different point designs, numbered by their drilling capability.

• No. 2 point: Suitable for light-gauge steel (up to 2.3mm).
• No. 3 point or higher: Designed for thicker or double-layer steel applications.

Using the wrong point type can cause overheating, stripping, or failure to penetrate.